Paris Journal 2007

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Above and below, decoration on the Pont Alexandre III.

 

 

 

Place Breteuil and the Invalides.

 

The Alive! exhibit was built with bamboo – a renewable
resource.

A Russian restaurant on rue Saint Dominique near the
avenue de la Bourdonnais.  We want to go there sometime,
just because it looks so attractive inside.

 

An administrative building for the church Notre Dame
de la Nativité de Bercy.

Wednesday, August 22

 

When we entered Chartier on Monday, we were seated at a small table right up against two other small tables, so we were essentially eating with four other people.  This kind of seating is typical for those old fashioned restaurants established for working people. 

 

On my left was a young French couple who clearly seemed to be in Paris for vacation, from the provinces.  They were very quiet, and I think they were surprised by the seating arrangement.

 

On my right were two men – very Parisian – one in his 60s, tall, and handsome in a tanned, muscular sailor sort of way, and the other in his 80s, cheerful, talkative, and tiny.

 

The men were having quite a conversation about nothing much at all.  At one point, they were talking about languages, including Italian, Spanish, English, and, yes, “American.”  They’d been at their lunch table for hours.  It was about 3 or 3:30 when we arrived.

 

When our food came, Tom needed the salt and pepper, so he politely asked the men if he could have one of their two sets of shakers.  The 60-something man very politely presented Tom with the salt and pepper, addressing him as “monsieur,” of course, and he went on to present the mustard and vinegar as well.  So when he got up to leave, he was sure to bid us a good day as well as his dining companion.

 

The tiny older man stayed a bit longer to finish his wine.  When he was preparing to leave, he addressed Tom and asked if we were French.  (Of course he knew we weren’t; this was just his way of being polite.)  No, Tom told him, we are from Floride.  Again, the reaction to this is one of pleasant surprise.  The man said something about palm trees and nice weather, then complained about the weather in Paris this summer.  We exchanged good days and au revoir’s, and then Tom and I were among the very few diners left in the restaurant.

 

Yesterday we went on an incredibly long walk, first along the Seine to the other side of Paris, and then after resting in the apartment in the 6th, we walked through the 7th to La Gauloise, where the servers again treated us like VIPs.  Judging by the photographs on the wall, VIPs do dine there.  We sat at the best table for two in the house, right next to a signed photo of Nicolas Sarkozy and the restaurant owner.

 

The reason we went is that the special of the day, posted on the menu outside that I check frequently, was a sauté of filet de boeuf with a roquefort sauce and fingerling potatoes.  It was absolutely superb – and as tender as any American steak.  The sauce was out of this world, it was so good.  After, I had the crème brulée; the La Gauloise crème brulée is one of my favorites since it is more flavorful than most.  Tom had his usual ice cream, which seemed to be Häagen-Dazs from the ice cream parlor across the street.  As a little something extra, we were given a small pile of dark chocolates and two chocolate chocolate chip cookies at the end of the meal.

 

In the news:

 

The technicians still have not been able to repair the low voltage electrical system for the computers that manage the operating rooms at the flagship hospital, the Georges Pompidou.  Now they are saying that wing of the hospital will be out of commission for several more weeks!  All the patients in intensive care have now been moved to other public hospitals.

 

Paris Plages (the Paris beaches project) is now over for the summer and the homeless men who live on the banks of the Seine there are resigned to having to put up with vehicle noise again.  They like having Paris Plage for a neighbor, and they even participate in some of the games provided, such as boules (petancle, bocci).

 

Ratatouille is still the number one movie in the Paris region.  From August 15th to 19th, 170,732 people went to see it here.  The number two movie, The Fantastic Four, had only 69,455 viewers.

 

The front page of Le Journal de Paris (center section of Le Parisien) featured a web site that teaches we English speakers some pretty funny idiomatic language used by the French in Paris.  You can learn these phrases by clicking here and watching the videos.  Audrey Tautou is the star.

 

 

Commitment to place and people

 

I suppose that one reason we keep coming back to the same place every summer is that we have a strong commitment to place.  We always have.  That’s what kept us in Columbus, Ohio, for so long.  That’s what keeps us in Sanibel.  And here in Paris, I have some of that same feeling for the neighborhood in the 15th where we’ve been for so many summers now.

 

I care about the place.  I care about the people. 

 

Sure, it would be possible to move to someplace new every five to ten years as most Americans do.  There are nice people almost everywhere, and one can make new friends. 

 

But what about the friends you have now?  How do they feel when you up and move away for very little reason at all?  Does that matter?

 

It does to me.

 

Tom says it is harder and harder as you get older to up and move to a new place and to make new friends.  That’s probably true.

 

Leaving Columbus wasn’t too hard because we no longer had family in Ohio.  And our true friends will come to see us in Florida and France. 

 

I made a difference in Columbus.  I changed some things about the city and those changes are having a lasting effect.  Many of those changes I made along with other people.  But there were a couple that I did almost single-handedly.  Leaving that behind was a bit hard, but it meant I could also leave knowing I had done more than my part in being a good citizen there.

 

If I had lived life more selfishly, I would have moved to Washington, D.C., when I was young.  I would have had a career in the Federal government.  But I was committed to Columbus, and I stayed for 30-some years.

 

Now I’m very committed to Sanibel, and I’m staying.  And I’ll probably keep coming back to the 15th arrondissement of Paris for the summer as long as I can.

 

My friends can count on me.  I’ll be there.

 

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