Paris Journal 2014 – Barbara Joy Cooley Home: barbarajoycooley.com
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While it is a holiday weekend in France, we still work every day at the computers until late afternoon. People back home don’t seem to remember this; many of them think we’re on a summer-long holiday. It is ironic that Floridians think this, because they are tired of people up north thinking that all they do is swim, play tennis and golf, and fish. While that’s true for a few, it isn’t true for most. Even though we keep up the work-first-then-play routine right through the weekend, we still had to plan a little for this quietest holiday weekend in mid-August. The occasion is the Catholic holiday of the Feast of the Assumption, August 15. French people of every faith and no faith seem to recognize it as a holiday in some form or another. It is the peak of vacation time, when you’ll find the largest number of businesses closed up for some period of time. But that number grows smaller every year. And vacation closings grow shorter every year. As I said, we planned, and made two grocery shopping runs on Friday, being sure to pick up some special treats for the special weekend – like some of the best fresh blueberries ever (just as good as the North Carolina blueberries we bought in June before we left Florida). We forgot to buy butter, however, and yesterday we were concerned about running out of it today. The best place to buy butter is the fromagerie, of course. But we worked right up until 7PM and didn’t want to carry butter with us when we went to dinner. We didn’t worry about it. As we strolled down the avenue Félix Faure toward Le Granite Bistro on rue Duranton, we noticed several shops still open, as the dinner hour approached. Anyone with last-minute plans to cook dinner at home was in luck; there were produce vendors (vergers), little groceries, delicatessens, bakeries, etc., still open – and not just on the avenue Félix Faure. This was true in neighborhoods all over Paris, I’m sure, even late in the evening on the holiday weekend. So no, Paris does not shut down in August. Not at all! On this peak holiday weekend, we’re dining in some of our most favorite places – Le Granite last night, Le Café du Commerce the night before, and Vin et Marée tonight. There’s no shortage of good restos open. As for the butter problem? After dinner, on our way home, we ducked into Carrefour Express and found some higher quality butter than what we’ve seen lately at Franprix or Dia. We bought it, plopped it into my shopping bag that stays in a pouch in my handbag, and strolled on home, with visions of baguette toast in the morning, slathered with French butter and some incredibly good blueberry preserves. No, Paris does not shut down in August, and you don’t have to make sacrifices or do without things if you’re here in August. The streets are peaceful, and everyone is more relaxed than during other times of year. The occasional Parisian still in full-rush mode can be spotted here and there, but those frenzied Parisians are now the exception, not the rule. We flaneurs are now in full control. We rule the streets, for the time being. When we entered Le Granite, Dalila popped up from her chair and greeted us with double air-kisses. It was a delight to see her, and we felt right at home, as we took our seats at our regular table. She gave us a newly printed menu, and Tom immediately noticed a new steak on that menu. So after we shared an order of the escargots, he had that steak topped with a mi-cuit slice of foie gras entier and a divine sauce. The plat came with puréed potatoes, but I could tell he wanted fries. So when I ordered my gambas (prawns), which came with ratatouille, I asked if we could also please order a separate plate of fries. (Fries are served with Le Granite’s gourmet burger, so I know they make them.) I wanted a few; but I knew Tom really wanted them more, with his steak. He said that steak was “as good a piece of red meat as you’ll find in France.” He let me taste it, as well as the foie gras and sauce, and I’ll tell you, it was heavenly. That steak was tender, juicy, and delicious. The sauce with my gambas was amazingly good, and when I commented to that effect to Dalila, she said that it is made with cognac, cream, etc., etc. I’ve noticed this happening a number of times in France; when I simply say “I love the sauce,” I am often told all of its ingredients, and sometimes how it is made as well. That is so cool! The ratatouille was delicious, too, and there was plenty of it so I shared it with Tom. The fries, by the way, were superb – most definitely fait maison (as was our crème brûlée at dessert time). Chef Eric brought the little plate of fabulous fries to our table himself. Rarely does he come out of the kitchen into the dining room, in our experience. I thanked him and smiled at him, and he smiled back in a shy and adorable way. What a charming pair they are, Eric and Dalila! When we left, more air kisses were exchanged and we promised to come back soon. Dalila asked us questions about when we were leaving the 15th, and when we were going to leave Paris for home. More than any other restaurateur in Paris, she makes us feel at home.
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Sunday, August 17, 2014
Verger
(produce vendor) open on Saturday evening on the avenue Félix Faure. Below, a bakery open in the same block.
Carrefour Express on the avenue Félix Faure was still open
after dinner.
Le Granite’s prawns in a cognac-cream sauce with homemade
ratatouille.
Best steak of the year in Paris – topped with a slice of mi-cuit foie gras entier, and in a
pool of exquisite cream sauce, with country-style mashed potatoes. Bravo, Le Granite! |
