Paris Journal 2007

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Church tower and clock on the Ile St. Louis.

 

Chandelier in the Musée Cognacq-Jay.  I love these smooth,
rounded crystals.

 

Garden at the Musée Carnavalet, above and below.

 

A quiet and shady place to rest, the ampitheatre in the
garden of the Musée du Quai Branly.

Saturday, August 11

 

Monaco is the world’s smallest French-speaking sovereignty, and it is on the Mediterranean, surrounded on three sides by France.  It is ruled by the Sovereign Prince, who now is Albert II, also known as Albert Alexandre Louis Pierre Grimaldi.  He’s three years younger than I am.  When he was young, he was a camp counseler in New Hampshire, and he graduated from Amherst College in Massachusetts in 1981 with a degree in political science.  He is, of course, the son of Grace Kelly.  I think I remember our friends Murray and Ellen saying that Albert is also a reader of James Joyce.

 

You’d think he would be a modern sort of guy who would believe in basic rights such as free speech.

 

Think again.

 

An organist named Marc Giacone has an irreverent sense of political humor.  He had the nerve to post some satirical portraits of Albert as a clown with a red nose on a web site called Monaco Politic Circus. 

 

For this offense, the procurer of Monaco requested on Tuesday that Marc be sentenced by a tribunal to six months of prison farm for posting those images.  A fine of €1500 was also requested.

 

In addition, Marc, who is 53 years old, lost his job as an organist at a chapel in Monaco.  So he’s gone home to live with his parents – in France, bien sûr.

 

The Procurer of Monaco, Gérard Dubès, had this to say to Marc:

 

“Vos clowns de la politique monégasque ne font rire personne. Vous n'êtes pas un comique, un clown, un humoriste, un guignol de l'info monégasque ni un blagueur, mais un triste individu qui n'hésite pas à injurier, offenser, diffamer. Votre page web n'est pas une œuvre d'art, mais un jeu de massacre  . . . .  La liberté d'expression doit être protégée, mais elle ne doit pas être un bouclier. Il ne faut pas banaliser ces faits.”

 

Translation:

 

“Your clowns of Monaco politics don’t make anyone laugh.  You are not a comedian, a clown, a humorist, or a Punch [puppet of the Punch & Judy show] of Monaco information, nor a joker, just a sad individual who doesn’t hesitate to injure, offend, defame.  Your web page is not a work of art, but a game of massacre . . . . Freedom of expression must be protected, but it must not be a shield.  It is necessary not to banalize these acts.”

 

When he was arrested, Marc was interrogated for seven and a half hours!  He suffered a panic attack during that time.  He asked forgiveness from all the people he had insulted.

 

Evidently, he had posted caricatures of other high-level people, but it is only the caricatures of the prince that brought him to court.

 

In France, the last such court case for offending the chief of State happened in 1965.

 

According to Quentin Canette, a writer for Le Parisien, Prince Albert II is criticized for his lack of personality.  When Quentin contacted the procurer and the government of Monaco about the case, they didn’t want to comment, but they did make it clear to Quentin that the prince knew all about the case of Marc Giacone.

 

The sentence will be finally deliberated on October 9.  Stay tuned.

 

On to more pleasant topics, like food.

 

Thanks to Bob Spencer, a regular reader of this Journal, we now know that a céviche is actually an American word, seviche, and according to Merriam Webster, it is “a dish of raw fish marinated in lime or lemon juice often with oil, onions, peppers, and seasonings and served especially as an appetizer.”  The dictionary says, more specifically, that it is an American Spanish word that dates back to 1939.  Isabelle was being quite multi-cultural to use such a word on her French menu at Le Tire Bouchon!

 

Yesterday my sister called to say the Nespresso boutique was not where it is supposed to be, at 126 rue du Bac.  I was shocked and dismayed.  I questioned her about where she was at the time she made this startling discovery.  Yes, she was in the right place.  Right next to the entrance to the Foreign Mission association, and across the street from Conran’s home furnishings store.

 

So in the evening, when Tom and I went out for our walk, we went to investigate.  Whew.   The boutique is still there.  It is three bays wide, with two entrances facing rue du Bac, and it has three awnings with the word “Nespresso” in large white letters on the brown wall above each one.

 

What went wrong, I wondered?  If you are approaching from the direction that my sister was coming from, you’d see the Nespresso Nespresso Nespresso, unless you were looking down.  And once you are right in front of the shop, there are no words painted on the windows that say Nespresso or anything close, just the Nespresso logo etched subtly on the glass.  My sister must have been looking down at her feet as she approached the shop.

 

The shop has several big display windows with espresso machines, espresso cups, and the Nespresso capsules on display, all charmingly arranged as Parisians would want them to be.

 

My sister was no doubt looking for a shop that had aisles and rows of shelves from which you would pick out your own Nespresso capsule boxes.  That isn’t how it works, and that is what I should have explained to her.  Hindsight is 20-20.

 

There are no such shelves or aisles where you can freely browse.  There is a little exhibit which explains what each type of Nespresso is like, and what its name is.  Tom always studies this for a bit when he first arrives in the shop.

 

Then you go up to one of the many cashiers who are situated at various intervals behind a long counter that snakes around three sides of the boutique.  All of the Nespresso boxes are stored neatly in cubbyholes in the wall behind the cashier.  You ask the cashier for the ones that you want, and they ring it up and hand you your nifty brown Nespresso shopping bag with your boxes inside.

 

I think the place just didn’t look like what my sister expected, and so she just couldn’t “see” it.

 

After reassuring ourselves of the boutique’s existence, Tom and I went up to Le Bourbon (telephone 01-45—51-58-27), the fine brasserie in front of the National Assembly building (or is it in back of?  Anyway, it is on the Place du Palais Bourbon).  We think it is under new management. 

 

Tom had a terrific dinner of lamb chops, and I was delighted to find raie (stingray, or skate) on the menu.  It was served with a fine lemon beurre blanc with capers.  The green beans that we were served were overcooked, in my opinion, although I know people who prefer them that way.  We each had a moelleaux au chocolat for dessert.  Heavenly.

 

Seated next to us was an extended, well-to-do Egyptian-American family.  They were babbling away in two or three different languages, but their language of choice for dealing with the restaurant was, of course, English.  The young man in the family seemed to be the only one who knew French, and his pronunciation was bad.  Mostly he was going on at length in perfect nasal American English, directing his comments mostly toward his father (or father-in-law?), on the subject of relations between Egypt and Israel.

 

Then we walked home, guided by the glittering Eiffel Tower.  Lovely Paris.

 

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