Paris Journal 2007

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Butterfly on lilac in the Champ de Mars.

 

The area to the immediate southwest of the Eiffel Tower
is called the Allée de Refuzniks.  “Refuzniks” are Israeli
soldiers who refuse to serve in the occupied territories.
This area just next to the busy Tower is remarkably calm.

 

A grotto with a little waterfall in the Allée de Refuzniks area.

 

The little waterfall, and the busy square under the tower
just beyond.

 

On the other side of the tower is another peaceful area
called the Allée Jean Paulhan (1884-1968), a French writer
and critic, and a member of the French Academy (1963).

The tower seen through the trees of the Allée Jean Paulhan.

Tuesday, July 24

 

Yesterday evening, we made a mad dash on the métro  to the FedEx office on boulevard Haussmann to send one of Tom’s chapters off to his publisher in New York.  I had checked the FedEx France web site for the hours that this office is open.  The site carefully explained the hours for weekdays and Saturday, and admonished customers to be sure to be there at 4:45PM on Saturdays for the last pickup, although the hour of closing was somewhat later.  The closing time for weekdays is 7:30PM, and there was nothing about last pickup warnings or anything.  So, we arrived at 6PM, and voila!  The last pickup was at 5:30.  So the package won’t arrive in New York until Wednesday morning.  This probably doesn’t matter because the publisher often ignores Tom’s submissions for a few weeks, even though they put him on a rigorous schedule of deadlines.  But the FedEx last pickup was a bit of a disappointment, especially given that they have an extra 6 hours to move packages from Paris to New York, two of the world’s major cities, due to the time difference.  Oh well.

 

I just checked on the tracking number.  The package is indeed still in St. Ouen, just to the north of Paris, not far from the Charles de Gaulle airport.

 

After we finished our business at FedEx, we had a leisurely, long, quiet walk down through the 8th arrondissement, to the Champs Elysées, which was absolutely wild with traffic and people.  The walk was serene again after we crossed that grand boulevard, until we reached the big intersection at Place de l’Alma.  We made our walk longer by attempting to drop in on Dan and Mary on the rue Desaix.  They were not at home.  So we went on home so I could finish making dinner (sauce was prepared in the afternoon).

 

We just received a travel update from Erhard, who is in Sweden with his wife Maree, visiting her relatives.  Erhard is an engineer who is naturally prone to calculating things like the speed of the train they are on.  He also calculates relative exchange rates, and he made us aware of the Big Mac Index, an invention of the British magazine, The Economist.

 

Here is the magazine’s brief explanation of the index:

 

Big Mac Index

 

Burgernomics is based on the theory of purchasing-power parity, the notion that a dollar should buy the same amount in all countries. Thus in the long run, the exchange rate between two countries should move towards the rate that equalises the prices of an identical basket of goods and services in each country. Our "basket" is a McDonald's Big Mac, which is produced in about 120 countries. The Big Mac PPP is the exchange rate that would mean hamburgers cost the same in America as abroad. Comparing actual exchange rates with PPPs indicates whether a currency is under- or overvalued.

 

And here is a chart from The Economist, dated July 5, 2007, which shows the current situation.  Sarkozy and I are correct.  We Americans are paying too much for the euro.  I wish the European Central Bank would wake up and do something appropriate about this!  It simply must be hurting European exports.

 

And so I cooked Italian food last night.  Dan and Mary didn’t show up, so we have plenty of leftovers.  I notice that there is a lot of grated Emmental cheese sold in the groceries here.  Emmental is a type of Gruyère cheese – the closest to what we call Swiss cheese.  Another type of Gruyère is Compté, and that is the kind I like best.  It is sharper, and tastes a tiny bit like cheddar or Parmesan.  It is more expensive than Emmental, but less than Parmesan (at least, here in Paris it is).  Compté is often called “Franche-Compté.”

 

There is a phrase that appears with some frequency on menus in French restaurants.  It is “à la Savoyarde,” and it refers to cuisine from southeastern France, involving quantities of shredded Gruyère.

 

Finding a very nice shredder in the kitchen, I decided to shred Compté to serve with last night’s pasta dish, which was already a fairly Provençale style, moving a bit away from Italian.  The results were excellent, and the shredded cheese was beautiful – a pile of thin, curly tendrils.  There is no need to buy expensive Parmesan cheese here.  French Compté will do very nicely.  In fact, I’d say it was even better.  For best results, use “Compté Extra,” which is a bit sharper than regular Compté.

 

Here’s the garlic report:  Egyptian garlic is milder than garlic grown in Mexico.  Egyptian garlic has more, but much smaller, cloves per head, which means it is much more work to prepare.  Given a choice, I shall buy the more savory Mexican garlic from now on, while in Paris.

 

Well, it finally happened again.  The rickety old hot water heater in the apartment here just gave out while I was cleaning up after lunch.  This water heater has been a problem in prior years.  Fortunately, Reza, the “old Iranian plumber,” as the apartment owner calls him, is not on vacation this time.  His shop is just down the street a bit, so Tom and I just visited him and his two aging white Persian cats when the daily two-and-a-half hour lunch hour was over.  He promises to stop by later.  I think he must first arrange for someone to sit in his shop while he’s out.

 

I usually don’t write about aspects of French culture that are written up in the International Herald Tribune, because I know many of you read the New York Times, and those articles are usually duplicated there.  But there are two that I simply cannot resist.

 

First is the weekly media chart that shows what the top 10 television shows (in terms of viewership) are in France, Germany, Italy, Poland, and the United States.

 

It comes as no surprise that all of the top 10 TV shows in the U.S. are all American shows.

 

But in France, FOUR of the top 10 most popular shows are American:  Grey’s Anatomy, CSI Miami, Who Wants to be a Millionaire?, and Cold Case.  All are dubbed in in French, of course. 

 

This is not a general European phenomenon.  In Germany, only two of the top ten shows are American, and they are completely different shows:  Nora Robert’s Montana Sky, and House.

 

In Italy, only two American shows make the top ten:  The Bold and the Beautiful, and a movie called The Wedding Date.

 

And in Poland, one American movie makes the list, Half Past Dead, and Hollywood Wives:  The New Generation, is listed as well.

 

I remember that in prior years, the most popular show here in France seemed to be E.R., which they call “Urgences.”

 

In spite of all this mythologizing about French hating Americans, the truth is, they love our culture.  You see it in the television they watch, and you hear it in the popular music they listen to.

 

The other fascinating IHT story about French culture was on the topic of the Nicolas Sarkozy administration and its supposed anti-intellectualism.  The event that precipitated this was the Finance Minister, Christine Lagarde, telling the French people to stop thinking so much and to “roll up their sleeves” and work more.

 

In the land of Descartes (“I think therefore I am”), this has sent tremors of horror though the intelligentsia.  One of the intellectuals interviewed on this subject was Alain Finkelkraut.  (Alain happens to be a French cousin of Steve Fink, one of Tom’s longtime colleagues in 19th Century American Literature at the Ohio State University.  Small world.)

 

Alain is a philosopher, writer, and radio show host.  He claims that thinking IS work, and that it requires “setbacks, suffering, a lot of sweat.” 

 

Alain is also among the French intellectuals who think that Sarkozy should walk instead of jog, because walking is more intellectual and jogging is not intellectual.  Alain claims to be a Sarkozy supporter, but he thinks that Sarko should abandon jogging, which Alain says is an “undignified” pursuit.

 

His radio show guests agreed.  They also mentioned that Jimmy Carter and Bill Clinton were joggers.  They did not mention, however, that George W. Bush was a jogger until recently.  He had to give it up due to knee problems.  Now, W rides a bicycle.  That would be too much sacrilege to even think about for the French, who love cycling as a sport.

 

 

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