Paris Journal 2010 – Barbara Joy Cooley Home: barbarajoycooley.com

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We approached Paris in a different way this year – by flying direct from Fort Myers, FL, to Düsseldorf, Germany. There we had a few hours of layover and then we departed on a flight to Paris’ Orly airport. I loved the Air Berlin staff and service. However, the Airbus aircraft was uncomfortable, and the Düsseldorf airport was rather shabby. I asked for a gluten-free meal for the long flight and was deliciously accommodated with things like fresh berries instead of rolls of white doughy bread. For some reason, the Air Berlin staff gave Tom gluten-free meals, too. It went well with his South Beach extended weight loss plan. The Orly airport was a pleasant surprise. It was nice – at least the part of it that we experienced. Although I’d never been to Orly, I knew that the best way into Paris from there was the Air France bus to the Montparnasse station. I easily found an “Information” counter with two bored staffers who were eager to answer my question about where to find this bus. I asked in French, was quickly answered in French, and I understood the directions perfectly. And this year, I didn’t even try to brush up on the French before summer arrived. Progress. The Air France bus was hot at first, but after the driver turned on the A.C. and started up, it wasn’t bad. It was more comfortable than the Air Berlin Airbus. The bus fare was 11.50 euros per person. Someone had told me that the trip into the city would take an hour. But after we left the other terminal (Orly West), it took only 20 minutes to reach the Montparnasse station – during rush hour. We could have taken the metro from Montparnasse because we had only a couple of briefcases, but we were too tired. We found the taxi stand and took a taxi instead. It was so easy, and fairly quick. We went to the apartment in the 15^th for the first night, because the other apartment wasn’t ready yet. It was okay, but with the hotter weather, we were anxious to move over to the apartment in the 6^th the next day. That apartment is much cooler in hot weather. So we are settled into the 6^th arrondissement until about the 9^th of July. Because we arrived late on Wednesday, Thursday was our first day, and it was taken up by resting and shopping for groceries after taking the metro to the 6^th. We did have a very late lunch at Bistrot de la Grille Saint Germain, where we dined out on the “terrasse” (sidewalk), savoring the Terrine de la Mere Brazier with its candied onions, as well as a cheese plate. Then we visited our favorite fromagerie (cheese shop) in the Saint Germain Market. At the fromagerie, we buy not just cheese – but also orange juice, milk, and eggs. Madame recognized us, and was very sweet to us. She gave me a big, reusable market bag without my asking. I told her that it was very nice, and nice of her to give it to me. She and her husband asked us about Florida, and the oil, and we explained the situation. No oil on the beaches where we live. Not even close. Florida is big. The Gulf is big. The weather is hot in Paris, but not as humid as in Florida. This is the time of year when Parisians drink rosé. Today we went for a long, slow walk through the Luxembourg Gardens, including the Marco Polo garden, along the rue du Notre Dame des Champs (one of the places where Hemingway lived), and back up through the Gardens to the concert gazebo where – like so many times in the past – we encountered a free concert. From a distance, I thought it was a children’s choir. But when we arrived, we found that the 70-some member chorus consisted of high school kids from all over Wisconsin. Behind them, filling up and overflowing from the concert gazebo, was a 220-piece concert band. I heard a beautiful voice, a young female soloist singing “Summertime,” so I quickened my pace in spite of the heat, not wanting to miss any more than necessary. When a couple chairs became free, we sat down in the deep shade of old trees for the duration of the concert. The band performed after the chorus (isn’t that always the way), and we were just thrilled to hear them. These kids come from all over the state of Wisconsin. Their group is called the Wisconsin Ambassadors of Music. Teachers recommend a few of their best music students for the program each summer. The band and chorus have only three days to practice together, and then they go off on tour. After Paris, these kids are going to perform in Switzerland. This group is part of Voyageurs International, which sponsors music ambassador groups in 33 states of the U.S.A. During the concert, we spoke a bit with the mom of one of the kids from Wisconsin. After the concert, I asked one of the chaperones some questions. While I was speaking with him, an older French couple came up to ask him questions, but he could not speak French. So I translated. The older couple was enthusiastic; the man said “They are the best performers. The best!” They were stunned when I told them that these kids only had three days of rehearsals together before they started the tour. The walk that we took today is very familiar. We’ve done it many times. But one thing I love about walking with a camera in my hand is that it causes me to really look at things. So I notice things that other people probably don’t see. I even notice things that I have missed before. A good example from today’s walk was the building that is home to the Closerie des Lilas restaurant, on the end of the Boulevard du Montparnasse, at the corner of the Boulevard Saint Michel. Tom noticed windows up the side of it that appeared to be where the interior staircase would be. I’m sure that is indeed where the staircase would be. In staring at that part of the building, I realized that the windows were slanted to give the illusion of the building turning inward, away from the street just a bit. But it was an illusion. As we walked closer and closer, we could see that the entire façade was flat. There was no corner at all. The architect succeeded in fooling they eye of the beholder. The architect was F. Gayaudo(t?)(r?), and the building dates to 1903. But I could not find any more information about the building or the architect. Maybe one of you could tell me more? Sign my guestbook. View my guestbook.

Friday, July 2, 2010 Lucky little dog awaits his owner outside a bakery on rue Vavin. Tom wears his new automatically darkening glasses in the Luxembourg Gardens. This façade does not look flat. But it is flat. Next → Note: For addresses & phone numbers of restaurants in this journal, click here.