Paris Journal 2007

Sign my guestbook. View my guestbook.                      Previous    Next                 Paris Journal 2007 Home

 

The elevated Line 6 of the Paris Métro, near the avenue
du Suffren.  Across from here is a bar called something
like the Crystal, where one day we saw a couple hundred
young people enjoying happy hour after work.  It was
a real “meat market.”  The young folk had spilled out of
the bar and had taken over the sidewalk and part of the
intersection.  They were mostly drinking beer, not wine.

The Jardin du Carrousel by the Louvre.

 

An old, decorated shell in an antiquities shop on the rue de
Varenne in the 7th arrondissement.

 

On Sunday afternoons, cars are banned from this road
along the Seine.  The Grand Palais is on the left, and
the Pont des Invalides and Pont Alexandre III are ahead.

 

On a hot, sunny Sunday, people collapse in the shade of
the Tuileries garden, even if the lawn is forbidden there.

 

Welded key art on a locksmith’s shop door.

 

 

Monday, July 16

 

I didn’t think I’d need to write about this because I thought, “Everybody knows this,” but evidently that is not true, or else people forget.  Do not bring dollars to Europe and expect to get a decent exchange rate at any of those money changing places.  Instead, use your ATM card when you get here to get the best rate on euros. 

 

What we normally do is make sure we have enough euros left at the end of the summer to start us off at the beginning of next summer.  That means at least enough euros to pay for the taxi fare from Charles De Gaulle airport to the apartment.  Then we use our ATM after that. 

 

That said, I’ll move on to more pleasant topics.

 

Last night we had our second dinner en famille since Dan and Mary arrived on Saturday.  I was the cook, of course.  (Someday somebody else will cook, maybe, if I live long enough.)  Both Dan and Mary love the apartment we got on the home exchange.  It is big.  We have almost 2 and a half bathrooms!  There is a salle de bains, a half bathroom, and a full bathroom.  There’s a balcony full of plants and a big living/dining room, as well as a decent-sized kitchen.

 

Earlier in the day, Tom and I took our very long walk along the Seine where the cars are banned on Sunday.  Yesterday was also the first day for the exciting Vélib’ project.  It began at 1PM.  10,600 bicycles were made available at 750 stations scattered throughout the city.  (There will be 1,451 stations by the end of December, but only 1000 of them will have a machine that sells the daily or weekly tickets.)

 

Tickets are available for one day (€1) or one week (€5), and there is an annual pass available for €29.  Then the first half hour is free, the second half hour is €1, the third half hour is €3, and each subsequent half hour is €4.  This way, people are encouraged to make short trips.  Nothing prevents you from turning in a bicycle every half hour and having the all the free half hours as long as you want. 

 

The bikes are sturdy things, with Kevlar (an American invention) reinforced tires to prevent flats.  There are three speeds, and one can change the gear even when stopped.  Each bike has a basket, and a cable lock.

 

The project is so popular that there were already 200,000 annual subscribers even before it started yesterday.

 

On our walk, we saw many of these bicycles.

 

I’m not sure if or when we’ll try Vélib’.  Being from Sanibel, where we have an ideal situation for bicycling with many miles of shared use paths and no dangerous traffic, no broken bottles on the pavement, etc., bicycling in Paris isn’t as much of an attraction for us as it would be to others.  It is like the Paris Beach project.  We live on an island with the most beautiful beaches in the world, and the beaches are real, with miniscule animals living in the sand, etc.  The Paris Beach isn’t real.  We like to look at it as we would watch the circus.  But we don’t see it as a real beach.  It is just entertainment.

 

We come to Paris so we can stroll through our favorite big city.  I do really like all the mayor’s projects involving reducing the number of cars in the city.  Since Vélib’ is one of those projects, I applaud it.

 

The changes on the rue du Commerce are another part of a city-wide effort to encourage pedestrians and discourage auto traffic.  I applaud it, too, even though it has meant the gentrification of a street that used to have mostly mom-and-pop shops.  “Rue du Commerce” is a phrase, an idiom, in the French language.  It is not just the name of the street around the corner from us.  It means the retail business community, in a way that is not unlike the way we might use “Main Street” in a figurative fashion.

 

As such, since there really is a rue du Commerce in Paris, it ought to be very nice, very commercial, and it should be for pedestrians.  So now it is.  Many of the conservative leaders in the 15th arrondissement bitterly opposed and objected to the project as it was being planned.  They thought that it would hurt businesses to take away so many parking spaces.

 

The conservatives were wrong.  Business is booming on the rue du Commerce, and we are experiencing far less traffic noise in the apartment.  Mayor Delanoe’s administration was right; it argued that only 3 to 5 percent of the citizens in the city do their errands and shopping by car (they must be those conservatives, the vocal minority).  The administration argued that most people shop as pedestrians and as users of mass transport.  That seems to be very true.

 

Delanoe knows what he’s doing.

 

Many public transport improvement projects have been undertaken in Paris in recent years.  One of the current ones is the renovation of the platform for the elevated train, Line 6, of the Paris Métro at the big La Motte Picquet station.  This is exactly where Tom’s arm was broken by a pickpocket in August 2000 – at the top of a rickety wooden escalator.  It is nice to know that ugly place will be utterly transformed.

 

Previous    Next

 

Sign my guestbook. View my guestbook.